In the ancient city of Varanasi, where devotion to Lord Shiva pulses through every corner, one temple stands out for its raw power and poignant history. Nestled behind the Alamgir Mosque, Kritivaseshwar Mahadev remains exposed to the elements, a testament to enduring faith amid controversy. This Shiva lingam, believed to be Shiva’s own head, draws only the most determined devotees, especially as Mahashivratri approaches.
Legends from the Skanda Purana paint a vivid picture. Demon GajAsur, empowered by severe penance to Brahma, terrorized the three worlds, including Kashi’s gods and faithful. Shiva descended, waged fierce battle, and slew the demon with his trident. Moved by GajAsur’s dying plea, Shiva draped the demon’s skin around himself, forming the sacred lingam worshipped today as Kritivaseshwar—’Lord clad in created skin.’
Counted among Kashi’s 14 most powerful shrines, this site once boasted immense glory. Invaders shattered the original lingam, but devotees installed a new one, preserving the sanctity. Today, court battles rage over reclaiming the full temple space, leaving Baba under open skies. Access is tricky, with worship far from routine.
During Sawan and Mahashivratri, the deity dazzles in elaborate adornments, yet crowds are sparse. Devotees whisper of miracles—wishes granted to the rare few who brave the path. As legal fights continue, Kritivaseshwar embodies resilience, calling the faithful to witness Shiva’s unyielding presence in Kashi’s heart.
This Mahashivratri, consider the journey. In a world of easy darshans, true blessings often lie beyond the beaten path, where history, myth, and devotion collide.